The mansions chettiars built.

After two days of temple visits, we stayed at the Chidambara Vilas, a Chettiar mansion coverted into a hotel. It was Nandini's surprise treat for us. A change of scene. Both parts of our heritage. 

I  learnt a bit more about Chettinad while in Bangkok. I met a person who belonged to the community. He was different. He was not in their family business and his son lived in USA. It was amazing to learn that his ancestral home, a mansion, was with 100 rooms.  The family was large and he was given a room wherein he stored the gifts he had received at his wedding. Though curious, I chatted more about things in general! 

We met occasionally and he once announced his son's  engagement and said they were getting busy with the wedding plans. Curious, I asked whether he had met the girl in USA. He said  "No, he is marrying his cousin. It is our tradition to ask within the family first."  It was a bit surprising that his son had not seen the girl as an adult. And the wedding was to be performed in their village. 

The next morning the hotel had arranged a walk and it was informative. The number and size of the mansions that were built during the 19th century showed that the community had  prospered well! As we walked around we saw mansions which were still active and grand! Many more which were shut and perhaps used as a holiday home by the owners. Also saw the ones which were abandoned after stripping the mansions of their special wooden doors and other decorative pieces and anything that could be sold! It must have been a very traumatic period. Saw a few lucky ones, like the mansion we stayed at, which were converted to hotels. Also noticed some small villas under construction. Signs of recovery. 

We learn that the community, was basically into private banking and money lending and did very well in Burma, now Myanmar, and in south asian countries like Singapore. They were hit by the changes after world war II. Post independence, the law against private lending completely changed their lives in India! But they have proved to be very resilient and resourceful and have spread to places beyond our shores!

We learn from the staff of the hotel that the community do maintain their old traditions. Temples are an important part of their lives! They are mainly built in the four villages where they congregate, perform festivals and weddings. Marriages are within the community. There is a mention of a tsunami where many women were killed! Also a case of mass suicide, which again left many male children without mothers. And how a guru who took care of the boys advised them to get married to a clan of farmers. 

A  fascinating community and worth researching! As businessmen they had learned to navigate well in a society where the kings, zamindars and warriors dominated!  They still show a good community discipline, and are practical. The rain water is  harvested in each village, and it is channeled into the lakes. None bathe in the lake and it is kept very clean! They also have built schools and have contributed for the common good of the people!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nagarathar

https://www.pillaiyarpattitemple.com/nagarathar-history.html

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chettinad

Villas are large. They  extend end to end on the streets. 

I think these garbage trolleys are well designed 

The one next to it was shut. 

Imitation of western styles

Some encourage handicraft 

More traditional

Just a caretaker living here. 

The guide called it a Palace!

The guide who thought of the tour. 

One of the bigger mansions. 
Looks deserted 

 Mansions abondoned after wood work is removed and sold. 

The full view

Many are in good shape. Holiday home for the family. 

Could be the rear end of the mans

The Hotel